On our third day in Japan we took the Shinkansen (bullet train) and then a few local trains to Ube city in Yamaguchi prefecture. Brian lived and worked here as an English teacher after college, and we couldn’t pass up the opportunity to see how it had changed over the last decade. Many aspects of it reminded us of dying towns in the American Midwest with its depressed downtown, closed shops, and empty streets, but it still had some lovely neighborhoods and some charm here and there. The best part for me, though, was to get to see where he used to live and work.

If you can read Japanese you will see that where his school used to be is now a hairdresser. We didn’t find the new location, but apparently there is a school still in town.

Katta-Kun, one of Ube’s most famous citizens. The pelican was famous for living in Ube’s main park and visiting local schools to play with the children.

The very depressing shopping arcade that was mostly closed.

The parking lot that used to be home to a 7-11 where Brian would buy his lunch everyday.

His old apartment building.

Waiting for my omelette rice at the Dugout. At least Brian’s old dining hangout was still there.

Brian in front of the Dugout.

Finally the train came and took us away from Ube. Goodbye for another 14 years!

On our last day in Fukuoka (sniff sniff) we went to Ohori Park, a lovely city park with a pond, running and cycling paths, and an awesome looking playground. We enjoyed a 7-11 breakfast on the island in the middle of the pond and then walked around marveling at the very fit runners who seemed to lap us every few minutes.

The park was filled with runners.

An egg and baby cheese breakfast. I just could not resist pronouncing baby cheese like Gloria on Modern Family.

Fukuoka is very lush, so much so, that there were plants growing on the trees.

Next to the park are the remains of Fukuoka Castle. It was a bit hard to envision what it looked like. I was often not sure if I was “inside” or “outside” the castle walls, but it was beautiful and peaceful anyway.

The base wall which is pretty much all that is left of Fukuoka Castle. The stone work was very impressive all the same.

Trees don’t seem to get cut down in the castle area. Instead they are tenderly cared for.

Also next to the park, Gokoku Shrine was hosting a flea market when we were there. So many tempting things to purchase.
Our last adventure for this trip was to visit the Fukuoka Tower and dip our toes (okay my toes) into the ocean. The tower was not super tall nor were the views anything amazing, but it was a nice way to get a better feel for how big Fukuoka city is. We will definitely go back to Fukuoka someday!

View to the east.

After Korea we took a short flight down to Fukuoka, Japan on the southern island of Kyushu. Fukuoka is Brian’s favorite Japanese city, and I too quickly fell in love with Fukuoka. Its great mix of big city amenities and laid back, unrushed atmosphere makes it a relaxing and convenient place to vacation. Our first day we explored the Tenjin shopping area, both above and underground. We also explored Gion, which was the area where our hotel was located. Gion, like much of Japan, was such a wonderful place to wander around little side streets finding shrines, temples, cemeteries, and other gems at every turn.

Flying into Fukuoka.

Just a random water pump.

The ubiquitous drinks vending machine. They are everywhere in Japan.

I can’t tell you how much I love Japanese convenience stores.

The next day we went to Canal City, a large indoor/outdoor shopping area. We weren’t in the mood to shop, but did have breakfast at a cute Moomin themed cafe. You can learn all about the Moomins here.

Every table got to host a Moomin character. We dined with Snorkmaiden who is not a Moomin but a Snork. You learn something new everyday.

Brian about to dig into his gigantic breakfast plater. Note the Moomin shaped waffles. It was all very delicious.

Next we hopped on a train to the Hakozaki Shrine where the 1,000 year old Hojoya festival was being held. The Shinto shrine was built in 923, but sadly burned down in the first Mongol invasion. (I am starting to see a trend in our travels….) The festival was an interesting blend of county fair like displays of amateur art and flower arrangements, religious activities, and carnival food. I skipped the cotton candy for a roasted ear of corn–it was delicious.

Hakozaki Shrine.

Vistors bought fortunes from the shrine employees and if they were good tied them to frames to be granted.

The festival is famous for its fresh ginger. I had never seen it with its stalk still on before.

It was quite the festival atmosphere.

Next we headed back to the area around our hotel where we wandered over to the nearby Kushida Shrine and Hakata Machiya Folk Museum. I should point out that around pretty much every corner in Gion is a shrine or temple. It would actually be hard not to visit shrines in that area. Anyway, the shrine was interesting in that it housed an amazing and huge paper machete float used in the Hakata Gion Yamakasa Festival held each July. I bought a fortune here but as it was bad; i.e, too good to leave behind, I kept mine for my journal. I will let you know later if it comes true.

Kushida Shrine.

The float. I can’t imagine how they carry around something so large.

Thinking about making Santiago an outfit like this.

The Folk Museum was made up of three old style buildings housing a store, a small museum dedicated to the history of the area, and a reconstructed merchant’s home. Inside the home a women was demonstrating how silk used to be woven on a loom. The loom used a card pattern system, and it was fascinating to watch how the cards were changed in the production of the woven silk.

The pattern cards for the loom.

The weaver at work.

The idyllic garden behind the museum.

The tiny little urinal in the ladies room. It was even pink!

Joining Brian’s dad and Yvonne on a leg of their around the world trip, the four of us flew to Seoul, South Korea for a quick trip. One of our favorite places to visit, this trip to Seoul was a mix of new and old activities for us. Our first evening in town we wandered around a bit in the Bukchon village area (old style Korean homes), and then after a pleasant walk through a new park along the Han river, we had dinner at a lovely Italian restaurant near the Banpo bridge. The next morning we visited the National Museum of Korea, which we had not been to before and were roundly impressed by. It was so large that we had to pick and choose what we saw, so we focused on the Goryeo dynasty (Mongol invasions) and the Sinan Shipwreck which sank in 1323 on a voyage from China to Japan and was rediscovered by a fisherman in 1975 when his nets brought up a porcelain vase. We highly recommend the museum if you ever find yourself in Seoul.

The pond in front of the museum.

At the museum. Between our heads you can see N Seoul Tower which we visited next.

After a delicious meal at the museum food court (food courts in Asia are not to be confused with greasy low quality American mall food courts) we hopped back on the subway and then onto a cable car that got us to the N Seoul Tower. We were fortunate to catch a free cultural at the base of the tower before heading to the top. The views were much better than the last time we visited when it was snowing! The best part, though, had to be the ice cream sandwiches made with macaroons. Delicious!

Sword play.

Brian and his Dad thinking of Mongolia.

Even the bathroom views were amazing.

That evening we had one final dinner together and then said our goodbyes, as Brian and I were heading out early the next morning to Fukuoka, Japan and Phil and Yvonne were continuing onto Hawaii. Lucky ducks!

This summer has been exceptionally busy for us in terms of visitors. Many people talk about visiting Mongolia, but few ever make it. This year was different. In July, after our trip to Shanghai, my mom and her friend Frank visited us for a week. It was very green and lush then in the mountains, as you can see in the pictures.

Mom and Frank

Wondering where the dog has gotten to.

Hiking Ladies

The men often had to stop to talk math and physics.

Then in August our Peace Corps friend Angie and her husband Fidel visited Mongolia, and we had the great pleasure of hosting them. They visited western Mongolia where Angie used to live, and went to the Gobi desert, where they let me join in their adventures. We happened to be in my village when it was celebrating its 90th anniversary, and we got to see lots of cultural shows, as well as many of my old students.

Lovely ladies getting ready to dance and sing.

Namuuntuul and I. She is going to college now to become a math teacher and I could not be prouder.

Dancing to open the wrestling competition.

Aminerdene, the daughter of one of my former students.

I think all gers should be made of flowers.

Zula, Angie, and Fidel.

Finally, in September Brian’s dad and his wife Yvonne stopped in Mongolia on an around the world trip. Their trip had already taken them to New York City, Iceland, France, and Turkey, so Mongolia had a lot to prove. This trip to the mountains was much browner than in July, but still lovely.

Look Ma we all fit in the picture!

Pretty puppy.

Dog in motion.

So who is going to visit us next? Time will tell…

A few weeks ago we visited Shanghai, China for the first time. Not only did we get to see the vibrant and crowded city that my brother and his girlfriend live in, but we also met up with my Mom and her partner Frank as they finished a two week tour of China.  As we often do when visiting a new place, we could not help but compare Shanghai with our home in Ulaanbaatar. In terms of amenities–public transportation, dining, convenience store snacks; etc–Shanghai comes out ahead. But, in terms of personal space, pace of life, and being able to use your credit card, Ulaanbaatar takes the win. While living in Mongolia, one can forget just how crowded some parts of the world truly are.

As for places to see, we highly recommend the Shanghai Urban Planning Exhibition Center. The Bund is a fascinating mix of old and new. The acrobatic show put on by ERA is jaw dropping, and everything we ate from Japanese food to traditional English tea is delicious. The intense frenetic pace of the city makes it hard to call it a “relaxing” vacation destination, but there is so much to experience, it is definitely a place worth visiting.

David outside the school he works at near People's Square.

On our way to the Bund.

The old side of the river...

the new side...

...and the millions of people checking out the view with me.

Drivers in Shanghai make Mongolian drivers look positively well behaved. We had so much time to spare trying to cross the street that we could take a picture.

Fuxing Park. Shady peaceful parks are definitely something missing in Ulaanbaatar.

A road in the French Concession.

A much needed and delicious veggie bun stop.

A memorable family dinner.

The view from the 94th floor of the Shanghai World Financial Center.

David at work.

Nothing like high tea to rejuvenate a person.

David and Jessica at tea at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel.

At the end of February we had the opportunity to visit our friends Sarah and Anthony in tropical Myanmar, also called Burma. It was my first trip to South Asia, and it did not disappoint. Aside from getting to see our wonderful friends after a very long break, we got to visit a fascinating country that, not unlike Mongolia, is in the midst of a great transition. We spent a few days in Yangon checking out its parks, walking through an endless market, marveling at the grandness of Shwedagon Pagoda and the millions of bats flying over it in the evening, enjoying the moldy grandeur of the many remaining Colonial era buildings, and eating everything from dirt cheap Indian food to a fancy brunch at the “Governor’s Residence” complete with tiny, individual creme brûlées.

The second half of our trip was spent in true paradise on Ngapali beach, an hour flight west of Yangon. One day we went out snorkeling in a tiny little boat that barely seemed sea worthy. On our way back we stopped at an island and drank fresh juices out of coconuts.  We also got massages, swam, ate amazing fish on the beach as we watched the sunset and, in general, became as relaxed as jelly fish.

Sarah wrote a fabulous description of our trip here which is pretty much everything I wanted to write about, so I will just post a few additional photos below that we took. We both hope to make it back to magical Myanmar soon.

The streets were either wide and empty or like this one teeming with life and activity.

Shwedagon Pagoda was an interesting mix of religious worship and individuals selling plastic crap from China.

Outside the Pegu Club, a gentleman's club popular from the 1800's to the early 1900s.

Burmese written on a wall in the Pegu Club.

Why can't all my breakfasts be like this one?

Our hotel at Ngapali Beach. We felt it was our duty to give them business.

Two fisherman near our hotel bringing in the night's catch.

The women were in charge of spreading the fish on the beach to dry.

Brian contemplating all the life decisions that he had made to get where he was.

Off for a day in our yacht.

Last but not least me and my pig cake.

The last few months have been an enjoyable mix of mini-adventures, dog walks in -30 temps, and lots of hot soups to keep us going. Here are a few of the highlights.

1. We went on a really, and I can’t stress enough, really cold trip to the National Observatory. Not usually open to the public, we were able to go on a private tour with a few friends late one evening. Even though the telescope was pretty rudimentary (built by the Russians in the 1950s) we got to see two of Jupiter’s moons, a star cluster, and some other astronomical beauties. Our tour guide was Mongolia’s only state astronomer who just happens to be married to Mongolia’s only state palaeontologist. I think a trip back in the summer would be fun–the loveliness of the stars without our toes freezing off.

2. I have gotten more involved with IWAM, or International Women’s Association of Mongolia. I am volunteering as the project coordinator which means that I communicate with organizations wishing to apply for funds, present their applications to the board, and then facilitate approved projects. Our first project of the year was to donate a much needed fetal heart monitor to Maternity Hospital #2. They deliver 20 to 25 babies a day and up until now only had one machine. Here I am presenting the hospital representatives with the machine during our Tsagaan Sar meeting.

Other activities have included making up donation bundles to give to new mothers in the national hospitals, visiting various hospitals and organizations, and meeting with lots of inspiring women such as those who work at the Mongolian Women’s Fund and the Women’s Council of Ulaanbaatar.

Translating at the Bayanzurkh hospital for our group of visitors.

While visiting the Mongolian Women's Fund we were lucky enough to celebrate the birthday of their director who also happens to be the first-"First Lady of Mongolia."

3. My translating skills have been put to the test more and more lately with IWAM, as well as one time being the intermediary in a minor fender bender. I enjoy being able to help in situations, but it is a good reminder that I need to continue to study each and every day if I ever want to come close to mastering this ridiculous but fun language.

4. Our Tsagaan Sar this year was very laid back and only our friend Zula and her family visited us. In fact, all 5 days of Tsagaan Sar can be summed up with this one, relaxing picture.

We did visit one friend’s home, as well, and on our way back to town we stopped at an ice playground in the parking lot of a shopping center. You have to be a tough kid to enjoy going down an ice slide.

5. Lastly, Darkhuu is back in town for a few weeks which we always enjoy. On Sunday she, Tsend-Ayoush, and I went to a belated Tsagaan Sar party for all the people from Hanhongor who now live in Ulaanbaatar. I only knew a few people, but it was nice to see some familiar faces and to confuse the visiting dignitaries who must have really wondered who the foreigner was who acted like she belonged there.

Our next blog post will chronicle our upcoming tropical vacation to a secret destination, but until then I leave you with this wonderful curled paper doll that I bought at a craft fair.

From us in Mongolia to wherever you are this year, we wish you a very Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.

The past three weeks were a wonderful mix of beach and blizzard, friends and family, restaurants and home cooked meals, and frantic runs through airports and long naps. As always, it was wonderful to see so many of the people we love-we only wish it could have been longer. Our trip took us to San Diego to visit Brian’s family as well as friends from high school and Peace Corps, Madison Wisconsin to hang out with cousins and college friends, and Ohio to see my family. Now it’s time for all of you to come visit us!

Lunch at Callaway Vineyard in Temecula California.

Brian and his Dad. Could these two look any more alike?

Margaritas in Temecula. We could have had Mexican food every night.

A much needed stop at Oceanside beach.

Picturesque Julian California

Brian risking his life at Balboa Park.

The Botanic Building at Balboa Park. We also visited the Natural History Museum and the Timken Museum of Art.

Enjoying the view at Three Corners.

We spent a day at the Maritime Museum of San Diego which was wonderful. This is the Star of India-the oldest active merchant sailing ship in the world.

Inside the Russian submarine we enjoyed seeing the exact same Russian cocoa (teal box) and ketchup that we use here.

Brian and his awesome sister posing on the dock.

A very large and intimidating friend on our ocean walk.

A sea lion in the wild!

Brian and his close friend John.

Dinner with Brian's mom and sister and our friends John, Saori, Arturo and cute Luna.

A wonderful day of connecting with my friend Erika from high school....

..and Hyun from Peace Corps and her awesome family at the San Diego Botanic Gardens.

There is something so magical about being warm outside in December. I love southern California!

Walking our cousins to school in Wisconsin. Where did the palm trees go?

Lots of love and babies awaited us in Madison. We have great friends for sure.

Lunch with our sweet friend Ruth.

A snowy walk in Ohio.

Mom picking out the best tree.

It was great to spend the day with my Grandma.

The view from our 15th floor hotel room in South Korea.

Korea-home of the best airport food.

I spent my very first 10 weeks in Mongolia in a mining town in the north with a awesome host family. Most volunteers had “host parents” who were about the age of their real parents, but my host mom and dad were my age which made for a lot of fun. Zolzaya was (and still is) an English teacher in the local school, and Baba was a heavy machinery driver at the local mine. They lived in a sparsely furnished two room apartment with their super cute 2 year old daughter Oyundar.

Baby Oyundar

Baba and Zoloo were the first to speak Mongolian with me, even though I was horrible at it, and they introduced me to Mongolian songs, games, food, and just life in general. It was a wonderful summer and I couldn’t have asked for a better family.

The four of us in 2002

This past weekend I went back to visit them (I have visited several times in the meantime but not for a few years). Sadly Baba was at work, and I didn’t get to see him. He no longer works at the local mine but instead has a much more lucrative job at a coal mine in the southwest Gobi. His and Zoloo’s hard work, though, was definitely present. A few years ago they sold their apartment and bought another with 3 bedrooms which they have decorated very nicely. They also own a car and a store which I think regardless of qualms you might have about Mongolia’s mining boom is a testament to how it has improved the lives of many in the middle class.

We made pizza and pudding, and drank red wine while watching sappy Korean soap operas. We were entertained by the newest addition to the family, Togoldor, age four, and looked at pictures with Zoloo’s indefatigable 80 year old father who only just recently retired from driving the employee bus at the local mine. I feel very lucky to still have them in my life.

Zoloo in her classroom which was also the room I learned my first Mongolian words in.

Nothing better than morning cartoons with your big sister.

Looking at pictures with Oyundar, Togo, and Grandpa.

Man I wish I had had a swing in my house when I was a kid.

The four of us in 2013 minus Baba.