Trip to Tsogt Tsetsii Soum

During the school break in late January, the school teachers took a work trip to a nearby town that has a lot of mining, and thus a lot of money for things like a brand new school. Now, a work trip in America might involve a car ride with 2 or 3 coworkers or a plane trip to a neighboring state. You stay at a mid-rate hotel and attend a conference or meetings. This is what a work trip in the Mongolian countryside is like.

8:30-scheduled departure time. After waiting for one van and then another van and then a missing teacher we left at 9:30.

9:40 A.M. While still within sight of town we stopped due to our first flat tire. 10:00 A.M. back on the road.

10:15 A.M. Stopped for our second flat tire. In order to stay warm while waiting outside in -15F temps the teachers in my van decided to play the Mongolian version of duck duck goose. I never really figured out the words and managed to abruptly end the game by falling spread eagle on the desert floor scrapping the skin on my chin off. The funniest part about this is that when I got home and showed Darkhuu my boo boo even before I could tell her what happened she asked me if I had been playing a game with the teachers. Apparently they are notorious for rowdy games!

10:30 A.M. Finally back on the “road” to Tsogt-Tsestii. We finally made it to our destination at 11:45 A.M. It only took us 2 hours and 15 minutes to travel 55 miles! After dropping off our meat and noodles at the local public school for the dorm cook to make our lunch from, we headed to the new private school “Мөрөөдөл” or “Dream” school.

The school is temporarily housed in the first floor of one of the new apartment buildings being built by Tavan Tolgoi, the large coal mine located about 8 kilometers from town. Eventually there will be hundreds of new apartments, and brand new public/private school and kindergarten, and numerous stores and parks. They are currently in the first stage of building

but some lucky families have already moved into new apartments.

The school is small but nice and has much higher quality furniture and electronic equipment than our school. The director told us all about the present school as well as the plans for the future much larger school they will start building this spring. We then took a tour of the classrooms and met some of the teachers.

The English language room was especially nice–not only because the teacher had a television in her room which she used to show language videos and such, but because they are one of the selected schools in Mongolia that are piloting the new Cambridge system English materials. Even just a quick glance at the books showed that they are much better than the books I am teaching from and are highly integrated with listening, speaking, acting, and audio visual activities.

Sadly the rest of the schools won’t get the system until 2014, so until then I am stuck teaching my 9th graders, who live in a town with basically no electricity and internet, lessons on internet shopping and using ATM machines.

2:00 P.M. We headed on over to the headquarters of Tavan Tolgoi mines and had a safety briefing in their very nice office. We then boarded a bus, all decked out in safety gear, for a tour of the mine.

We were not allowed to take pictures in the mine unfortunately but I wish I could have. The place was much larger than I had remembered and amazingly dirty. (here is a view from the outside taken a few years ago)

While most workers live in apartments or gers in town, it appeared that some people live in gers within the confines of the mine. The gers were pitch black in color due to the constant coal dust in the air. I don’t know how anyone could live there. The bus drove us around the mine pit and we got out at a lookout. They mine and process an area the size of a football field everyday!

3:30 P.M. We left behind our hard helmets and headed back to town for lunch at the public school. We also took a little tour of the school. Tsogt Tsestii, because of the mine, has grown in leaps and bounds the last few years so the school population has exploded. Where as my school has one group of students per grade, they had 4-5 groups. Their school building was also much more rundown than ours so they truly are in need of a new school. As much as I wish Hanhongor had a fancy new school I don’t wish a mine, horrible population growth, or the loss of community on our sweet little town.

5:00 P.M After a few stops and starts for vodka with friends alongside the road, we left town and headed to Baran Naraa another, smaller coal mine, located northwest of our town. We had another safety training and then got into our vans for a mine tour. As we were there after the sun had set we got to see them working under floodlights. Both mines were very professionally run, accessible and accommodating to public visitors, and eager to show how they benefit the people of Mongolia. While the environmental impact of these mines is yet to be seen at least they seem to be starting off in the right direction.

8:00 P.M. After a dinner of chicken breasts, french fries, and a green salad (!) at the mine we headed back, getting home around 10 P.M.

To recap my work trip in the Gobi Desert:

Mines visited: 2

Hard hats worn: 2

Schools visited: 2

Vodka shots drunk: 4

Flat tires: 2

Scrapped chins: 1

It was a great trip!

Generator

As mentioned previously, the electricity in our province has been a problem since the day the power plant was built in 2000. Since Brian needs power for his business we finally broke down and bought a cute little green generator. Being the handyman that he is, Brian built an all weather box to protect it as well as to store his tools in. Check out out the fancy new setup over at Brian’s business blog.

New Song

Today in a teacher training session at school one of the teachers taught us a song that she learned from Nana the local JICA volunteer. It is very cute and I thought I would share it with you. It is sung to the tune of Where is Pinky? and done with hand motions:

Чулуу хайч цаасаар 

Чулуу хайч цаасаар

Чулуу хайч цаасаар

юу хийх вэ?

юу хийх вэ?

Баруун гар цаас

Зүүн гар чулуу

нисдэг тэрэг

нисдэг тэрэг

Чулуу хайч цаасаар

Чулуу хайч цаасаар

юу хийх вэ?

юу хийх вэ?

Баруун гар хайч

Зүүн гар хайч

нүдний шил

нүдний шил

 English translation

Rock scissors paper  (fist, peace symbol held like scissors, open hand)

Rock scissors paper (fist, peace symbol held like scissors, open hand)

What is made? (one hand on your chin, the other supporting your elbow-like you are wondering)

What is made?(opposite of above)

Right hand paper (right hand open flat)

Left hand rock (left hand in a fist)

Helicopter!              (Right hand on top of left hand moving back and forth like helicopter propellers)

Helicopter!

Rock scissors paper (fist, peace symbol held like scissors, open hand)

Rock scissors paper (fist, peace symbol held like scissors, open hand)

What is made? (one hand on your chin, the other supporting your elbow)

What is made? (opposite of above)

Right hand scissors (right hand in a peace symbol)

Left hand scissors (left hand in a peace symbol)

eye glasses! (both hands held up at the eyes, fingers pointing towards eyes-like you are making raccoon eyes)

eye glasses!

Our New Bed

After 4 months of sleeping with just a couple of old school desk tops and sheets of felt between us and the ground, we decided to upgrade and move our old school desk tops and sheets of felt a couple of feet off the ground. Darkhuu, the industrious, found us the old front of a traditional Mongolian bed, and with some newly purchased wood and a few additional school desk tops Brian went about building us a top notch bed. First Brian added a frame to the back of the bed front, as well as a middle and back frame.

He then joined the three frames together from the top using the desk tops.

A few more strategic cuts for the ends of the bed….

and voila-a wonderful sturdy and much warmer bed.

Even Santiago thinks Brian did a great job.

Laundry in Mongolia

Laundry in Mongolia is a laborious weekly or twice weekly activity that involves getting water from the well, heating water on the stove, hand scrubbing every thing, rinsing everything, and then hanging it up to dry for 12-24 hours, depending on how dry/cold the day is.

If you look at the picture above you can see how the process unfolds. I take clothes from the dirty pile, scrub them with powered Tide and a bar of lye soap (yellow thing on top of the clothes) in the purple bucket, and then deposit them in the green bucket. Once I am done I empty the very dirty water (see Brian’s shirt as an example of what I am cleaning)

into the blue bucket, and then repeat the process with clean water to rinse out the soap. One of the hardest parts of the job is wringing everything out by hand.

Once everything is washed I either hang the clothes on an indoor rack that we borrow from Darkhuu or on the line outside.

Here I am hanging up the laundry:

Note carefully the steam coming off the clothes due to the very cold air temperature. In the winter the clothes freeze solid in a matter of minutes and then the moisture sublimates off of them.

When it gets dark out, we bring our clothes in and either fold them and put them away or hang them on the rack to finish drying. As you can see, cold weather can make for some strange laundry.

And that is how one does laundry with no power or running water.

School, Kindergarten, and Hospital Donations

While we were in America we received some very generous donations from my father Richard Munson, and Franz and Sally Jaggar, two participants in last year’s CAORC conference which was held in Mongolia. Together with an assortment of supplies that we purchased we were able to make some very much appreciated donations to the school, kindergarten, and hospital here in town.

I held a small ceremony at school and invited all the teachers to check the materials out. While some things are only useful in my class (e.g. English books), other materials such as scissors, glue sticks, and construction paper were excitedly welcomed by all the teachers.

I also took some of the supplies over to the Kindergarten where I know all sorts of fun things will be made.

Lastly, thanks to my father we were able to give the hospital some much needed supplies including band aids, bandages, and alcohol wipes. While band aids are not super expensive here, they can be hard to come by. It is not uncommon for people to literally buy one or two band aids at the store.

Thank you again Dad, Franz, and Sally. Your donations really made a difference in the lives of people with boo boos or the need the craft.

Quick trip to Korea

On our way back to Mongolia we had a scheduled 34 hour layover in Korea. We got into Incheon airport around 4 in the morning, and after going through immigration we immediately made our way to the airport 7-11 and stocked up on teas, onigiri, and all sorts of sweet and salty Korean snacks. We spent the next few hours until the rest of the airport opened exploring the airport and stopping to refill on snacks every 30 minutes or so. The Incheon airport is one of the best in the world, and no wonder.  Where else can you see a 3-D lighted paper-mache model of a boy flying a kite?

From the airport were able to book our hotel room, get a free shuttle to and from the airport to the hotel, and organized a 5 hour bus tour to Seoul.

The bus trip took us to Seoul which is about an hour from the airport. The area between the city and airport seemed to be a mix of industrial areas and scrub brush nature with a lot of fog mixed in. In Seoul we walked a bit around downtown next to a recovered and rebuilt river that flows right through the middle of the city.

The city was clean, open, and quieter than I had expected. There were also some lovely pieces of art.

We then went to Gyeongbokgung Palace, a large, multi building palace in the middle of downtown Seoul which was built in the 14th century. We got to see a number of the buildings as well as the changing of the guard ceremony. While the palace was lovely, I did wonder how comfortable it was in the winter. Seemed pretty drafty to me!

A super fancy water fountain

The main entrance gate

Details of the buildings

And the obligatory peace sign photo

Our last stop in Seoul was for lunch and a bit of shopping in a tourist district downtown. As always the food was amazing, and we bought an assortment of wooden and metal chopsticks.

We will definitely be heading back to Korea for a real vacation in the near future. First stop on my list: the Korean Folk History Museum. You can watch them make kimchi the old fashioned way!

Christmas

We spent the week before Christmas in Ohio, which largely went undocumented by photos since we were too busy shopping, relaxing, and eating.  As always it was wonderful to see my parents, my grandmother, and other relatives, although it was not the same this year without a visit with Aunt Sue. Aunt Sue, who was actually my grandmother’s other sister and therefore my great aunt, passed away on Thanksgiving at the wonderful age of 94. There never was a nicer, kinder person than Aunt Sue, and I miss her everyday.  When we returned to Mongolia we received a fruitcake in the mail from her which she had sent in early November. It was the best cake from heaven we have ever gotten.

Here is Brian with a gift he didn’t get for Christmas (my mom’s cat Ginger)

My grandmother and mother opening grandma’s new television. Mom bought it for her to replace the black and white television in her kitchen that was so old that it still had dials to turn.

We were unable to find our stockings so I made us some out of unused wallpaper. When we got to my Dad’s house we found our real stockings hanging on his mantel. I have absolutely no recollection of giving them to him. Very strange.

My most wonderful gift-a two sided mini-quilt made by my mom of Nigel and Santiago. The Nigel side is proudly displayed in our ger since we can still gaze lovingly at the real Santi.

We also got to visit my Dad and his partner Libby near Cincinnati which was wonderful. We took their dog Rusty to a nearby state park and collected fossils along the river bed. Brian has worked on his rock skipping skills and impressed us all.

Graduation and Wisconsin

Due to a weather related delay leaving Mongolia we had got to spend a night in Korea in a lovely hotel near the airport.  The floors were heated, the babimbob was filled with fresh vegetables, hot water came out of the shower heads, and we slept in a real bed for the first time in over four months. It was true heaven.

We made it to Madison on a Tuesday night, and I defended my thesis the next day. Overall it was a very enjoyable experience, and I got to answer all sorts of questions about my research. It is hard to believe that that was the last time I would be at UW as a student, and now that I have gotten final approval from my adviser (January 10th) I am no longer in school.  As much as I enjoyed grad school, there is something even more enjoyable about being free from homework, aside from that which I assign to students!

Graduation was on December 18th and held at the Kohl Center, the basketball arena on campus.

I was very fortunate that my dad and his partner Libby, my mom and her partner Frank, and Brian were all able to attend the ceremony.

My wonderful cousins who graciously put us up while we were in Wisconsin, were incredibly kind and threw me a graduation party.  Some of the guests even dressed up for the occasion!

I got a yummy cake

and got to see my wonderful friend Anne

and our super friends David, La, and Chris.

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Travels to America

Having spent enough time in cold slow vans and buses in Mongolia to last our entire lives, we decided to fly to Ulaanbaatar from Dalanzadgad. There is a very nice airline that serves countryside locations in Mongolia, but no matter how good their inflight snacks are Mongolian weather still is a wildcard.  We were supposed to leave at 9 A.M. but didn’t leave until around noon. (One exciting discovery that we made when we were delayed was that there was high speed wireless internet at the airport!) About half way through our 1 hour 20 minute flight an announcement came over the intercom that made it sound like we were landing in Khentii, the province east of Ulaanbaatar, instead of Ulaanbaatar. Brian had been asleep during the announcement and didn’t believe me until our plane banked to the right.  We landed on a dirt, snow, and ice runway at one of the least inspiring airports in the world-here:

Here is our cute little plane:

After an hour in the drafty and entirely unsecured airport, (people were walking freely in and out of the airport and the airline never did a second security check when we got back on) we re-boarded and flew over beautiful snow covered hills