Our stove

After waiting several weeks we finally got our ger stove.  In the never ending quest to get something of high quality for a low price we had ordered a stove to be made for us through a friend.  Although it took much longer to make than any of us had expected since the man making it needed electricity to weld the parts together, we did finally get the call that it was done. The next day we eagerly drove to Dalanzadgad to pick it up.  Well, as we may have guessed, once Darkhuu went to collect the stove it was discovered that our stove was a piece of crap.  As in there were actual holes in the top and in the corners and it looked like it was pieced together with metal scraps from around the workshop.  Not the best design if one is trying to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning!

Working quickly Darkhuu’s relatives called around and we got a lead on a stove for sale in a ger district for the same price.  We rushed off to get it before someone else who valued being warm did.  Our stove is a bit strange looking compared to normal ger stoves, it reminds me a bit of a lunar module, but it works fabulously and gets our ger toasty warm in a matter of minutes.

Once we returned to town two gentlemen who are known about town for their craftiness with mud came over to prepare our stove for use.  All ger stoves get lined with bricks and mud which harden into thick, heat retaining walls after the first few fires.  Breaking old bricks apart with a hammer and gluing them in with a mud slurry, our bricklayers had our stove ready for use in under an hour.  The first fire was glorious!

To keep our stove company we have now added a fire proof tile for it to sit on, a dung/wood box, a coal bucket, some fire tongs and a poker, and an assortment of hot mitts.  Let the fire fiddling being!

Preparing the stove for use

The first fire. My cold little fingers were so happy!

Some prices for ya’ll

Bread: 60 cents

Coke: $1.70 for a large bottle

Coal: $6 a ton delivered

A new large ger: $2,500

Monthly electricity bill: $3.50

Monthly cell phone bill: $4.00

Ger stove with chimney: $164

A goat: $65

A camel: $450-600

Potatoes: $1.10 a kilo

Leather jacket: $300

A average teachers monthly salary: $225

Masters research update #1

After a slow start I have finally made some progress on my research.  The first week here I edited my questionnaires with Darkhuu, and they are now fabulous.  A good friend had translated them for me, but she had misunderstood some questions that needed fixing.  After editing was done, we spent several futile days trying to print and then make lots of photocopies, which in a town without electricity is a bit tricky.  I have now collected 75 of the 100 surveys that I need and have identified 3 of my 9 interview participants as well as someone in the local government to ask about adoption.  I hope to start interviewing this week, so wish me luck.  Data collection I will conquer you!

Exciting book purchases

When I was in Ulaanbaatar I bought some exciting books in Mongolian for reading practice.  Books are still relatively expensive and there are not many book stores but I was pleasantly surprised to see an ever increasing selection.  Current books on my shelf include the following:

Нисдэг Гэр  (The flying ger)

Харри хүү ба шидэт шохой (Harry and the purple crayon)

Өглөгч Мод (The giving tree)

Хуучин Хот (The old city)

Матилда (Matilda)

Хар Шувууны Цагаан Түүх (Heartwarming story of a dark raven)

Шерлок Холмсын тухай өгүүллэгүүд (Sherlock Holmes mysteries)

Урт Оймст Пиппи (Pippi Longstocking)

Харри Поттер ба Нууцат Өрөө (Harry Potter and the secret room. I can’t find the first one)

Update: Brian brought home the first Harry Potter book for me last week (November 7, 2011)

Nigel Allowishish Munson White

Our sweet Nigel Pink Feather

Nigel, our most beloved cat and famed world traveler passed away at 6:10 in the morning on September 4th.  At the time of death he was surrounded by those who loved him the most and he went peacefully.  He was buried in the hills about 3 miles from town in a small valley with a lovely view of the Gurvan Saikhan mountain range.

For those of you who don’t know, I first met Nigel when I was a Peace Corps trainee in 2002 and he was a 6 week old stripy kitten.  He has lived in Hanhongor, Columbia Missouri, Ithaca New York, Ulaanbaatar Mongolia, Madison Wisconsin, and one final time in Hanhongor.  During his life time he moved between Mongolia and America 3 times and took trips to California, New England, and Ohio.  While he suffered from life long illnesses he had a very determined spirit and more attitude than any cat deserved.

He is greatly missed by everyone, including Santiago who seems to be extra bored these days.  While we wish we had gotten to spend another 9 years with the little stink ray as the days get colder we are glad that he is no longer tortured by an evil body.  Good luck Nig in your next life-we hope you are eating all the crunchy cat food your little heart desires!

Nigel’s last napping place.

First day of school

The first day of school in Mongolia is celebrated with new school uniforms, new notebooks, and many speeches.  At 8 in the morning teachers, parents, and students (lined up by class) all gathered outside in the school courtyard.  Awards were given to teachers for last year’s work, several dance and music numbers were performed by the students, and the 11th graders gifted the tiny 1st graders with pens and notebooks.  At the end of the ceremony a 1st grader symbolically rang the first bell of the year and all the students headed into the school for their first classes.  As I don’t have a homeroom class, I was done for the day, but most teachers spent the morning welcoming their students and handing out textbooks.  The morning ended with a live televised address by the president of Mongolia which in true Omnogobi fashion was cut short by a power outage.  It probably wasn’t that interesting anyway.

New Ger Party “Shin gerin nair”

Even though today was a busy day for my fellow teachers, we decided that today was the most auspicious day for our new ger party since the astrology calendar said so.  Mongolians traditionally hold a party when they have a new ger and these parties can last all day long.  Since we don’t have that many friends and don’t really like all day parties ours was a lovely 2.5 hours long instead.

Never pass anything between the ger poles!

Friends from school and town came to our ger and we served them milk tea, airag (fermented horse’s milk which we brought from Brian’s village), vodka, candy, chocolate chip cookies (which I made), potato salad, cucumbers, sausage, and noodle mutton soup.  Between drinks people gave welcome speeches, presented gifts including a Chinggis Khan statue and a super wonderful afghan crocheted by Emma our PCV, and sang songs.  As the man of the house Brian sang a song and hung a “hadag,” or prayer scarf, from the center of our ger roof.  My job was to serve the tea and food, but since we don’t have a stove yet I could not make the first ceremonial fire.

Brian singing for the guests

It has been a wonderful welcome back to Hanhongor from friends new and old.  Many people contributed to the construction of our ger from the flooring, the building, and the interior wall curtains for which we are so thankful.  In the speech by the village governor he told a story about how when I was a Peace Corps volunteer and he was the mailman that I bought so many stamps and envelopes that our village post office got an award for being the best in the province!  He  welcomed us back with open arms.  It is nice to be somewhere, to feel so wanted, and to know that you can make a real impact.

We are very happy new home owners

Friends from school enjoying the food.

The spread

My Mongolian son

Look at that cute face!

Yesterday, along with our furniture, we picked up Darkhuu’s great nephew Delgermuron. “Muron” is seven and going into the second grade, and he is one of the most inquisitive little kids we have ever met.  He loves animals and the minute he got out of the car he had become best friends with Santiago and a very gentle admirer of Nigel.

Muron, Santi, and Nigel playing with the Ipad

For the next 48 hours Muron basically lived with us showing up in the morning while we were still in our pajamas and only leaving in the evening when we gave him the boot.  Unlike many of my past English students he picked up “Come on”, “No”, and “Sit” in about a nano second and took it upon himself to be in charge of Santi’s walks and playtimes.

When Muron was not playing with the dog, he was pestering Brian with hundreds of questions such as “Do you think that crack was there a long time or did the earthquake do it?” (While passing an old building in town).   Brian convinced him that we don’t know English, and when he doesn’t understand us that we are speaking “Special Mongolian” which he would not learn until he went to college. He also told Muron that he had “Super eyes” that can see everything including things going on in the next town.

Perhaps the best part of Muron’s visit was that he started going around town and, all on his own accord, started telling people that I was his mom.  This caused no end of hilarity especially when people pointed out that his father must have been Mongolian and what did Brian think of it all?  It was great having him around and based on his love of Santi I think we will be seeing lots of him on the weekends.

Mongolian shopping

Two days ago while we were in the aimag center we picked out some furniture, haggled out a price with the seller, and requested a few repairs and changes before we came back on Monday to pick everything up.  As it often is, though, things in Mongolia are not as straight forward as you would hope.  Upon arriving in the store we found that none of the repairs had been made and a very surly saleswomen who insisted that we said we would come back on Tuesday.  Now keep in mind that we spent over $500 in her store, so it seemed very strange that she was so rude to us.  She even argued with us over changing our mind to buy two chests ($130) instead of the one ($100) one that we had originally picked out.

In the end we got a lovely new table, four stools, a kitchen storage unit, and 2 storage chests in and onto our jeep, made nice with the saleswomen, and even got her to smile.  Shopping here is certainly not like shopping at Ikea.

Our kitchen cupboard i.e. our entire kitchen!

Detail of one of the chests

Our new chests

Bucket bathing

For people who have never done it, bucket bathing may sound like a fairly straightforward activity involving a bucket or two, some soap, and you.  In fact it is quite a messy activity that involves the strategic practice of “regional body washing” and a large area of flooring without carpeting since no matter how good you are some of the water escapes your bucket.  Brian and I took our first buckets bathes in a long time last night, and while we both took a different approach to where to start (head, feet, “triangle of smell” etc) we both managed to make a small lake in the middle of our ger.  Hopefully we will improve with practice.