The New Teacher Apartment Building

One of the things about Mongolia that can make life a bit cheaper and easier is work housing. In the countryside it is not uncommon for government, hospital, and school employees to have the option to live in government housing for free or a nominal fee. The downside is that it is often in rundown buildings that used to be something else (the defunct veterinary hospital, anyone?) and with few amenities. For example, when I was a Peace Corps volunteer I lived in this building for one year with a bank teller and 4 teachers and their families.

Life was pretty hard given that when the power was out, which was most of the time, we had no lighting, no heating, and no way to cook. It is no wonder that I insisted on living in a ger my second year.

After I left town, the teachers were moved around every year or 2 to other defunct buildings including one of the old school buildings famous for its roof full of pigeon poop and the afore mentioned veterinary hospital. A few lucky souls got to live in the renovated community center but most of them were stuck in the old hospital with its camel sized doors which let in all the winter breezes. Hardly worth the cheap $3 a month rent.

Well, this summer, after two years of planning and raising government and private funds (from mining companies) one of the old student dorms was renovated. Here is one of the the old dorms (which was lived in by students up until 2 years ago)

And here, is the new teacher apartment building after it got bricks, wallpaper, new windows, and a roof.

It has 8, two room, and 1, one room apartments and is already festooned with all important satellite dishes. The inside changed from one giant wind sieve to something that looks more like it belongs in Ulaanbaatar.

Today was the official new housing party where the school director, governor, and representatives from the provincial counsel and the two donor companies spoke and cut the ribbon.

Lastly, the three teachers who had already moved in received their keys.

The teachers who are living in the new building have been teaching at my school since I first moved here 10 years ago and they have lived in horrible run down buildings, suffered from house fires, and in general had to live in places no one should live in. I wish them lots of luck and hope they don’t have to move for a very long time!

Running Water, Sort Of

As you may know, we usually get our water from a well-like this

But one day, a few weeks ago, we were drawn from our ger by the sound of a rototiller being used over by the police officer’s/governor’s houses. They were digging a trench and after asking around a bit we learned it was for water pipes. What? Water pipes that bring water directly from the well without you having to lug your 40 liter canisters all around? Where do we sign up?

We got Darkhuu on the case and about a week later Brian found himself and Sainaa out in our neighbor’s yard struggling with the rototiller for the piping to our yard.

A lot of hard machine and hand digging later,

and we were ready to call in the pipe laying professionals: Brian, Bayarmagnai, our neighbor and the town electrician/carpenter, his wife Urantuya, his son Sainaa, the town governor Sainbuyan, his wife and 2 year-old son, and various other neighbors. It was a true community project.

Covering over the pipeline was quickly completed by Brian, and our new spigot guard was installed.

So we now have water in our yard as long as the ground is not frozen, it is either Wednesday or Sunday night between 6-8 p.m. (our well times), we can get the well key from our neighbor, and someone goes to the well to turn on the motor. It is not quite in-home running water but beggars can’t be choosers.

Tornado Take 2

Ever since the tornado that tore our neighbor’s roof off we have been on tender hooks when the weather changes. Last Saturday we were hanging out in our ger attempting to escape the heat when we heard a boom of thunder. Steppng out of our ger we were met with this sight to the west of town:

Fortunately, this tornado did not enter town and passed us by. It seemed like everyone in town was out watching it, many on their roofs. What followed the tornado did hit town, though. First, a nice layer of hail and then, a torrential downpour.

At one point the weather gods tricked us into thinking that the rain was subsiding so we went back to our ger to check on the rain damage. We had barely gotten into our home when the rain picked up again, and we made a mad dash back to Darhuu’s. In the 15 feet between our two doors we became drenched-it was that kind of rain.

Finally the rain did let up and we went out to check out the damage. Areas of town that are normally bone dry (i.e. the entire town) had become tiny rivers that kids had to be hoisted over.

What was most impressive, though, was an area of desert right outside of town that is usually a dry mini-canyon littered with trash and popular with dying camels. It had become a full fledged flash flood complete with waterfall and was an amazing display of nature’s force.

June 23, 2012 will forever be the day of our second tornado and Santiago got to swim in the Gobi desert.

P.S. Can you guess from the weather report what time the tornado rolled by?

The Goat Babies a.k.a. Tiny Goat Invaders

There are two herds of goats in Hanhongor-”The Goat Ninja Assassins” and “the Goat Babies” as we have named them. The Goat Ninja Assassins are famous in our ger for two things-their stealthy movements and their sidekick-Irreverent Pooch. I will post about them another time.

Today though, I want to introduce you to the Goat Babies-7 tiny goats that usually live on the other side of town but last week decided to check out our yard for yummy bits. Since Santiago feels that it is her calling in life to chase goats, it was a good thing our door was shut at the time because the Goat Babies are too small for her to harass safely. In her stead, Brian went out and gently herded them out of our yard. They were not too keen on leaving our delicious weeds behind, but eventually moved on. Squirrels in your yard can be entertaining, but I have a special place in my heart for goat babies.

Rainbows and Tornadoes

During the last week here in Hanhongor we have seen some amazing weather-both good and bad.  Two days ago I got up and went out to go to the toilet around six in the morning and was greeted by a double rainbow going across the horizon in front of the Gurvan Saikhan mountains. It was a gorgeous sight that I got to share with the only other things awake at that time-the goats and camels.

Today, though, we were reminded of the harsher side of Mongolian weather. We had been expecting rain, and it had rained on and off for the last day or so but nothing big. At around 3 this afternoon we were sitting in our ger reading newspapers when all of a sudden we heard what we thought was thunder-except that it didn’t stop and grew increasingly louder. Santiago is generally not spooked by thunder, but this noise caused her to jump up and bolt for the door which was open at the time. Brian and I both yelled at her to stay put. Somehow we must have sense it wasn’t a good idea for scared dogs to be outside at that moment.

At about that time the booming and thundering sounds had stopped, and Brian and I stepped outside to see if a thunderstorm was approaching. To our surprise we saw a tornado heading away from our ger on the far side of our neighbor’s yard. It appeared to be about 20ft wide winding its way up into some very ominous grey clouds. Brian said that it was time we all went inside Darhuu’s house. We hustled Santiago into her front entrance way, and I went inside while he “battened down the hatches” on the ger. A few moments later he came in and told Darhuu and I that a neighbor’s house, no more than 75 yards from our ger, had had its roof completely ripped off. We all hustled out to make sure no one was hurt in the house, and other neighbors began appearing to help. It was settled fairly quickly that no one was hurt, and just in time because then came the hail. We all made our way back to our homes and waited out the hail and then a torrent of rain.

 (Some super ominous rain clouds)

The rain subsided and the sky began to clear about 10 minutes later, and we stepped out again to survey the damage. We finally got a clear sense of what happened. The tornado ripped through the roof of the house picking up roof tiles and beams (the thundering) and then travelled down the lane next to our ger throwing the gnarled pieces at fences and buildings (the booming), and somehow got to the open area just past our neighbor’s yard only taking out a section of his fence and not damaging anything else seriously.

We could deduce this from the trail of roof tiles and puncture holes in walls and fences in a line across the neighborhood.

Things happened so fast there wasn’t anytime to be scared, but then afterward there was time to think and, wow, that was close.

Thankfully no one was injured, and almost within the hour of the tornado people from around town began to gather in front of the house and help with clean up. Amazingly only the roof was torn off, and the ceiling remained intact and no windows were broken.

As a consequence, there was no serious water damage during the heaviest down pour. This being the land of portable, temporary homes, people set up a ger across town (incidentally really close to the path of the tornado on that side of town) and started moving furniture, clothing, and other household items to it.

The tornado happened around 3pm, and by 8pm the family was set up in a temporary place to live.

That was the first tornado Brian and I have seen, and we hope it is the last. Just another exciting, if unwelcome, part of living in the Gobi.

 

Our Ger

Recently a friend, after looking at my blog, commented that she still was not sure what our ger looks like and what it was like to live in a ger.  Here is what our ger does and doesn’t consist of.

The things we don’t have:

  • Running water
  • An indoor bathroom
  • An oven
  • A refrigerator
  • Storage

And the things we do have:

  • One room
  • One lightbulb and one electrical outlet
  • A bed handily crafted by Brian
  • A dry sink
  • A comfy chair lent to us by Darkhuu
  • One rug
  • One desk and two tables
  • Two wooden school chairs and four stools
  • One kitchen cabinet
  • One wardrobe and two chests which constitutes all our storage
  • One bookshelf
  • Three buckets totaling 70 liters for our water storage
  • One coal stove and one hot plate
  • Oh and one slightly smelly dog who is perfectly happy there is no bathtub for her to be tortured in.

Because gers are round, most of our furniture is situated around the edge with the main table and stove in the middle. Here are a few pictures moving from left to right after entering through the ger door (which faces south)

The door from inside

Two views of our lovely roof

The wall curtain pulled away to show the lattice wall and wool insulation behind it,

And the outside of our ger

So, as you can see, the things and comforts that we have definitely outweigh what we don’t have, and for the most part we very much enjoy our way of life. Of course, there are those really cold mornings when we wish we had a furnace, those days when the pile of laundry to hand wash seems as big as a car (which we incidentally don’t own) and I would kill for a washing machine, and, on the random day when the well lady decides to lock the well and disappear, a sink with running water would be divine. Oh, and eating by candlelight is not so much romantic as a reminder that the power plant down the road is an 8 million dollar pile of junk.

In exchange, though, we can watch the moon move across the wholly non-light polluted night sky while we lie in bed, it takes approximately 30 minutes to dust, sweep, and mop our entire house, and our monthly household related costs (we own our ger outright) are between $35-$103 for water, internet, and power depending on whether or not we have to use our generator.  I can’t see us living in a ger forever (just the thought of living in a one room house with a teenager gives me a stomach ache) but for now, we think it is just right.

Water: Something not to be taken for granted

Here are some facts about water consumption for perspective:

  • According the the EPA, the average American uses about 100 gallons, or 378 liters, of water a day.
  • This figure is about 2.5 times higher than used in England, and 3.5 times higher than Germany, two other industrialized nations.
  • 99% of Americans have access to hot and cold piped water, showers, and flush toilets.1
  • In comparison, a 2009 report by the UNDP, UNICEF, and the Mongolian Government states that only 22% of Mongolians have access to piped water. Add in improved wells and tankers and only 39.2% of the population has access to improved water, about 20% lower than the world average.
  • Mongolians who live in cities with piped water use about 285 liters a day, a figure not far from figures seen in Europe.
  • On the other hand, Mongolians who live in the countryside use less than 7 liters a day.
  • As a household, we use about 160 liters a week, or a little over 10 liters per person a day. This figure is above the average for Mongolians (we’re still Americans!) in the countryside but 28 times less than used by Mongolians in the city, and almost 40 times less than the average American (in America).
  • 100% of our water is brought to our ger in a canister on a cart by Brian, or a neighbor. Brian hand pumps all our drinking water to remove heavy metals and such but we are the only ones in town who do.
  • Lastly, we shower in the public bath house on the other side of town once a week and share an outside pit toilet with 7 people.

So the next time you grumble about cleaning the bathroom, put off doing laundry in your washing machine, or think that taking a shower is a hassle, take a moment to be thankful that you have all those options and that your water is not going to make you sick.

1. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Water_supply_and_sanitation_in_the_United_States

Mongolian Graffiti

Today when we returned from the afternoon dog walk we found this graffiti on our fence. Interpreted into English it means “Sadie teacher, did you have a nice weekend?” I don’t know what out of control kid dared to write such a nice message in erasable chalk on my fence but I will find them if it is the last thing I do so I can thank them for brightening my day. :)

Around Town

We had a snow storm last week and the wind whipped the snow up into fantastic rivers across town.

Our town has installed flood lights in the various neighborhoods and the social worker who lives near us is in charge of turning the light on and off each night. I love the fact there is a light switch on the pole.

On Easter we got out our kites for the first time and had a lot of fun. Many days are actually too windy for kites but on the days when we have mild wind you could not ask for a better, and safer, place to fly your kite.

Old Russian Base

About 3 kilometers northwest of Hanhongor is a small range of hills, of which at the base are the remains of an old Russian Army base. Built in the late 60s and intentionally destroyed by the Russians when they abandoned the site in the early 80s, it served as a listening station for Chinese communications. It was never very large, only about 30 people at any given time but it did boast housing, offices, an antenna, an underground storage depot, and a small store with Russian goods. Darkhuu remembers visiting the store with a Russian friend who worked at the school, as well as Russian soldiers coming into town in the evenings looking for alcohol.  When the Russians left, they took must things and blew up the buildings, but there is enough left for some fun exploring. One does wonder though what those soldiers did wrong to be sent to an army base in the most desolate area of the most uninhabited country under Russian influence!

Brian heading out to the base on a recent walk

Santi exploring. Some of the remains are as they were after the explosion and some have been gathered up for scrap but never taken away.

Looking around you can guess where things were

as well as learn about what they ate and wore

The creepiest part of the base is the old storage depot (cave, really) that is in the base of the hills. I have never gone in but Brian and John went in once. Eak.

From the hills behind the base there are lovely views including what we call the painted hills of Hanhongor

and a nice view of Hanhongor

It is very restful on the top