How to Waterproof a Ger

After several strong rain storms proved that our ger was far from waterproof, we bought some plastic sheeting in the aimag, invited some wonderfully helpful friends over, and waterproofed our ger.

First Darhuu removed the canvas cover,

leaving a felt covered ger behind.

Brian then removed the top level of roof felt,

and both layers of felt walls.

I wish our ger always had this much light!

After the walls, the last layer of roof felt came off. Here is Enkhjargal, our little neighbor, checking out our enlarged sky light.

Since our roof was off, Darhuu and I took the opportunity to clean all the roof poles. We removed the poles one at a time, washed them, dried them, and then put them back. We took spring cleaning to a whole new level!

Finally, it was time to put our house back together. First on, was the newly washed ceiling cotton which had gotten stained from rain leaks.

Next, with the wonderful help of 6 school workers and neighbors, the first layer of roof felt went on,

then the two layers of wall felt,

the second layer of roof felt, and finally the plastic sheeting which will hopefully keep it from raining inside the next time a storm comes.

The last step was putting the ropes back around the canvas to keep the ger together. There was so much muscle put into that step that the poles in the middle of our ger still don’t touch the ground!

Thanks for the help everyone. Here’s to no more leaking!

“Ger” Conditioning

We have recently been experiencing a bit of a heat wave down here in the Gobi. There are several ways to escape the heat in a ger- close your roof flap to keep out the sun, buy a fan, move into your neighbor’s house….but we chose to install “ger” conditioning. Cheap, eco-friendly, and most importantly, pooch tested and approved.

Our Ger

Recently a friend, after looking at my blog, commented that she still was not sure what our ger looks like and what it was like to live in a ger.  Here is what our ger does and doesn’t consist of.

The things we don’t have:

  • Running water
  • An indoor bathroom
  • An oven
  • A refrigerator
  • Storage

And the things we do have:

  • One room
  • One lightbulb and one electrical outlet
  • A bed handily crafted by Brian
  • A dry sink
  • A comfy chair lent to us by Darkhuu
  • One rug
  • One desk and two tables
  • Two wooden school chairs and four stools
  • One kitchen cabinet
  • One wardrobe and two chests which constitutes all our storage
  • One bookshelf
  • Three buckets totaling 70 liters for our water storage
  • One coal stove and one hot plate
  • Oh and one slightly smelly dog who is perfectly happy there is no bathtub for her to be tortured in.

Because gers are round, most of our furniture is situated around the edge with the main table and stove in the middle. Here are a few pictures moving from left to right after entering through the ger door (which faces south)

The door from inside

Two views of our lovely roof

The wall curtain pulled away to show the lattice wall and wool insulation behind it,

And the outside of our ger

So, as you can see, the things and comforts that we have definitely outweigh what we don’t have, and for the most part we very much enjoy our way of life. Of course, there are those really cold mornings when we wish we had a furnace, those days when the pile of laundry to hand wash seems as big as a car (which we incidentally don’t own) and I would kill for a washing machine, and, on the random day when the well lady decides to lock the well and disappear, a sink with running water would be divine. Oh, and eating by candlelight is not so much romantic as a reminder that the power plant down the road is an 8 million dollar pile of junk.

In exchange, though, we can watch the moon move across the wholly non-light polluted night sky while we lie in bed, it takes approximately 30 minutes to dust, sweep, and mop our entire house, and our monthly household related costs (we own our ger outright) are between $35-$103 for water, internet, and power depending on whether or not we have to use our generator.  I can’t see us living in a ger forever (just the thought of living in a one room house with a teenager gives me a stomach ache) but for now, we think it is just right.

Internet at last! (Well sort of, some of the time, if the wind is right)

Thanks to the perseverance of Brian and his giant computer like brain we now have wireless internet in our ger.  It can be amazingly slow at times (try 1kb a second download speeds) and the power likes to go out at annoying times, but we have internet.  We don’t have running water or indoor plumbing but we have internet.  I love it!

Our wonderful router and modem.

Birthday Goodness

I had a wonderful 34th birthday complete with food, friends, and electricity.  We were joined by Darkhuu, Emma (the Peace Corps volunteer), and our good friend John who was riding his motorcycle around the world and just happened to be in town for my big day.  We made pizzas in Darkhuu’s tiny oven, had delicious drinks prepared by Emma, and finished with a glorious cake.  I received much needed slippers and books from Brian, wonderful goodies from Sarah in England, and a totally unexpected Chinggis Khan rug from Darkhuu.  It now hangs in a place of honor in our home.

The lovely cake Darkhuu ordered from Dalanzadgad.

Some delicious candy from Tsendee.

Darkhuu giving me a wonderful new Chinggis rug.

Checking the placement.

The centerpiece of our ger.

My littlest town-Hanhongor

Hanhongor has a very special place in my heart.  It was where I was a Peace Corps volunteer and where many of my dearest friends live but it is also home.  Since some of you didn’t know me when I was a Peace Corps volunteer I thought I would describe it for you.

Hanhongor is the county seat of an area that includes Dalanzadgad (the provincial capital), the Gurvan Saikhan mountain range, and lots of Gobi desert.  There are about 2,500 people in the county but less that 500 in town.  The rest of the population are herders and are spread out over hundreds of miles of empty desert.

In town we can boast of a school with a little over 200 students in grades 1-11, a brand new 2 story school dormitory, government office, community center, 2 story kindergarten that is currently being renovated, two banks, a communications office that used to house the only phone in town and now acts as an internet cafe and post office, a community development office, a uniform sewing factory, a ger factory, and 4 stores of various size with business hours ranging from never open to infrequently open.  It is not much of a stretch to say that you can see everything in town from your home.

Living in such a small town leads to amusing interactions.  The store owner you buy bread from is also your sub-governor. The neighbor who does carpentry work for you is also the town electrician. And running into one of your students at 6 am in your pajamas on your way to the outhouse is a fact of life.  In fact I think seeing my students around town is something I will never get used to.  At school we are all dressed in our best (nice office clothes for me, and school uniforms for them), they call me Ms. Sadie, and I am the law.  Out about in town though we wear our dirty “collecting dung for the fire” clothes, we speak in Mongolian, and I revert to being called “bagsh” (teacher) in Mongolian.  And oddly enough they often are better behaved around me outside of the classroom.  Must be innate for kids to be punks in class…

Ger improvement

Brian and I are the proud owners of our very first home, and ger.  With this purchase I have learned a few interesting things about gers and people.

The first thing I learned is that when you buy a ger it doesn’t quite come with everything you would expect.  For example our ger came with the lattice walls, a door, the roof poles and center poles and circle, a layer of felt, the exterior cover, the top window flap for inclement weather, and the ropes needed to hold it all together.  It did not come with a floor, windows or window frames for the top of the ger, and some other necessary ropes.

We are now in the third week of ger improvement and have added interior wall curtains which go over the lattice walls, window frames (still working on the glass), a rope that hangs from the center of the ger which is tied to a heavy object to keep your ger from flying away in a sandstorm, furniture, and a stove.  Future work will include finishing the window project, adding a padded blanket to the door as added insulation, and covering the base of the ger with a foot or so of dirt to keep the draft out.

Finally getting glass in our windows!

Window's drying on the fence

Owning a ger has reminded me of how wonderful all my friends are in Hanhongor.  Before we got here, they poured a cement floor, drove the ger over from the factory on the other side of town and assembled it, painstakingly hung the wall curtains, and connected the ger to the electricity grid.  Arriving to find our home pretty much ready for us was a magical feeling.

Town rumors

Small towns are great for rumors because, aside from retelling the story about how that one guy rode his motorcycle into the outhouse hole last year, there is not much to talk about except gossip.  Rumors, both founded and unfounded this month, have revolved around when the electricity would come back on and why it was off this time, who is crazy enough to put up their ger in the middle of town so far from any outhouses, and what the mining companies are up to.  Hanhongor seems to have potential mineral resources that are enough to get several mining companies to fall all over themselves to win the town’s graces.  Last year one of the mines spent almost $50,000 renovating the English classroom into a learning lab complete with fancy computers (note-this is not the room I get to teach in) and last week another one gave out televisions and satellite dishes at a community meeting.  The newest rumor is that one of the mines which is connected to Tavan Tolgoi, one of the largest coal mines in the world located north east of here, is going to give every household 2 tons of coal for free.  As someone who burns coal and enjoys being warm this is one rumor I hope comes true.

Our stove

After waiting several weeks we finally got our ger stove.  In the never ending quest to get something of high quality for a low price we had ordered a stove to be made for us through a friend.  Although it took much longer to make than any of us had expected since the man making it needed electricity to weld the parts together, we did finally get the call that it was done. The next day we eagerly drove to Dalanzadgad to pick it up.  Well, as we may have guessed, once Darkhuu went to collect the stove it was discovered that our stove was a piece of crap.  As in there were actual holes in the top and in the corners and it looked like it was pieced together with metal scraps from around the workshop.  Not the best design if one is trying to avoid carbon monoxide poisoning!

Working quickly Darkhuu’s relatives called around and we got a lead on a stove for sale in a ger district for the same price.  We rushed off to get it before someone else who valued being warm did.  Our stove is a bit strange looking compared to normal ger stoves, it reminds me a bit of a lunar module, but it works fabulously and gets our ger toasty warm in a matter of minutes.

Once we returned to town two gentlemen who are known about town for their craftiness with mud came over to prepare our stove for use.  All ger stoves get lined with bricks and mud which harden into thick, heat retaining walls after the first few fires.  Breaking old bricks apart with a hammer and gluing them in with a mud slurry, our bricklayers had our stove ready for use in under an hour.  The first fire was glorious!

To keep our stove company we have now added a fire proof tile for it to sit on, a dung/wood box, a coal bucket, some fire tongs and a poker, and an assortment of hot mitts.  Let the fire fiddling being!

Preparing the stove for use

The first fire. My cold little fingers were so happy!